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Honda VFR400 (NC30) - Logan Bennett takes to the road with Honda's stunning little 400

1992 VFR400 NC30 - very yellow, very nippy, very nice indeed My personal introduction to the NC30 was 2 years ago purchasing a NC30 framed/NC35 powered beast, to use as a race-bike. Soon came an NC24 and then an NC30. Which is the one we are looking at today.

The 1992 VFR400 NC30 that I own is amazing to say the least. It came to me ex-Japan with 2,000km (hmm, bit hard to believe) as damaged-repairable. Had the Le-Mans 24hour single side headlight, lightweight fibreglass fairings, a few anodised bits, Earls Plot braided lines, and some pretty badly gummed up carburettors. After 3 months of hard work on the beast, repairing broken fairings, replacing bent handlebars, painting, and tweaking out, she was almost complete, all this still while commuting on it, and even taking it out for the odd weekend blast in its various stages.

I found right from day one - after cleaning out the carbs - she had pretty good power all round with a definite pickup over 7,000rpm of the 14,500rpm range given, and a further boost around 11,000rpm. Being a Honda, it has a silent, and smooth gearbox that just loves to be up-shifted without the clutch, every gear over 2nd just catching in perfectly without issue when done properly. With its Slipper Clutch from stock they don't mind the harder down changes and thoughtless dumping of the clutch when the old mind is working overtime trying to keep some pace through the favourite twisties.

Despite the above, there is always room for improvement… so what have I done to make it better? Well listing in order of what I found to give the best results…

Carbon Fibre end can, 44mm ID straight thru, 450mm long

Wow, straight away the bike was freed up… breathing so much better and sounding so horny this is definitely the first thing to do to your NC30!

Lifted Needles 1x 0.5mm washer under, Drilled slide holes to 2.5mm, air bleed screws half a turn out from stock, 116front 118rear main jets

Lifting the needles richened the midrange to help rid the stock flat spot @ 5,500rpm, Drilling slide holes 0.5mm larger only makes the bike more responsive, air bleed screws was to lean out idle, as it was bogging with a blip of the throttle from idle. Main jets were stock for that year/Japan, however the 1989 model has 110's all around, yet engine/carbs are identical.

Replaced stock paper element air filter with high-flow foam, removed snorkel, cut away plastic front flap of lower air box, removed under tank foam.

Foam lets the bike breathe more with its free-flow muffler and carb bits. The snorkel had to be removed after chopping away plastic under the shield, as the air was coming through and running straight up the snorkel. This was pressurising the air box, leaving the bike coughing in 3rd gear and above at higher revs. Removing the snorkel also let more air in, and gave the beast a beautiful induction howl…. The under tank sounds deafening… well, it was to give more air area for the air box to suck air from… that and now you can hear the beast roar below you as you crack that throttle open above 7,000rpm!!!

Speedo Derestricted

No longer sits at 120mph, goes straight thru to redline in 6th, stock gearing says that's 150mph, gets there smoothly and I bet if I was game enough it would carry right thru to the rev limiter at 15,600rpm - but I show mercy on the beast!

Scott Oilier fitted

Well, this just means less to worry about and longer lasting chain/sprockets.

Always nice to say thank you... The ergonomics and suspension feels like a 250! Really skinny between the knees and with the most front end biased rider position of the 400's, the wrists can get a little sore. That said, despite being 6foot I don't find it a cramp as such, I really enjoy its riding position and can bear it for three hours at a time. However stopping every hour is always a good idea. NC30 stock suspension is all that is needed. Although the '89 model didn't have adjustable rebound damping the Showa forks still work well. From 1992 onwards the bike got the better remote reservoir rear shock, however again this is not a must as the earlier offers the same rebound damping adjustments though only six preload settings.

As for the brakes, what can be said? With twin discs on the front sporting Nissin 4-pot callipers each side, a well-bled stock system with your taste of brake pads works a treat. However a set of braided lines will give you a slightly more rigid feel to those brakes which is helpful though not necessary if your pushing your NC hard. The rear brake you ask? Well to be honest I personally don't touch it unless its pouring with rain, however in my opinion it does its job fine, 2-pot single side calliper with its only problem being how close it is to the chain with the single side swing arm configuration, with my Scott oilier initially set too high oil wound up all over the rear disc.

Verdict: It's been 13 months, and 30,000km… She religiously gets an oil change every 3,000km using only Putoline DX4 (semi synthetic 10/40w oil), gets used every single day of the week, commuting, sport riding, and weekend track days… it gets the lot. The question I ask is why would you want more? It does the lot, really well in my opinion, I cant ride a 600 through my favourite twisties in the top tenth of its rev range so don't get the same buzz… these things take the punishment and in return give you the feeling you are your favourite WSBK rider!

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